“Fish, I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends.”

Last weekend we attended an age old Mexican pastime.  We went to the bullfights.  They are held seasonally at Plaza de Toros.  The first time we attended the bullfights I completely fell besotted.  We try to attend at least once each time we are in CDMX.  I know many complain about the ritual, and don’t even get PETA started.  No, not People Eating Tasty Animals.  The other one. I thought I would share some of my experiences with you and hope if you find yourself in Mexico City, you may consider giving the bullfights a try.

In order to arrive at the Plaza you walk the gauntlet of vendors selling all matter of tacos and bullfight souvenirs from bota bags (yes your wine is allowed inside) to all the textiles you can imagine imprinted with bulls.  At the end of the gauntlet you arrive at the row of ticket counters. Above the ticket window there is signage for the seats selections that are available at the particular window.  Generally you can buy tickets in the Sol (sunny) side or the Sombra (shady) side.  This particular day it was overcast so we selected the Sol side as those tickets are a little less expense and we were just below the general seating section.  Our tickets were $350 pesos each, about $18 US dollars each. 

Each time we visit the Plaza I spend some time marveling at the sheer size of the venue.  Upon arrival you have to look up, way up, to the top of the massive gates that you walk through to enter and at the top of the heavy iron gates is a colossal series of statues of charging and stampeding bulls being herded by a loan horsemen.  They are seemingly life sized and lively, apparently in motion.  It is nothing short of breathtaking.  There is no shortage of artwork here.  The outer arena is full of statues, busts, and reliefs that commemorate long past bulls and fighters alike.

Plaza de Torros is the largest bull fighting arena in the world at a whopping 41,262 seats.   And as you climb the stairs and enter into the seating area it’s hard to take in the enormity. You feel lost in time and it truly feels like a privilege to just be there.  So you take your seat and at 4:30 sharp the parade of characters begins.  Everyone from the arena caretakers, to the picadoras, to the matadors fighting that day arrive on the scene in a parade across the arena to continual applause. 

Once everyone has cleared the arena the card holder comes with a card overhead that tells you the name of the bull, when it was born, and who its breeder was.  And only then is the bull released into the arena to much, much applause, and then the dance with death begins. You know, they say there are three stages to bull fighting with the final stage being the death of the bull.  But I feel there is a fourth and that is when the beautiful large, harnessed and decorated, horses come out to remove the bull from the arena.  The horns play a slow, wretched tribute to the bull.  This is the unhappy pageantry of the fourth stage.

Do you think this ritual is a worthy tradition?  A cultural legacy that should continue?  Or is this immoral and cruel?  In 2011 Spain stopped their 600 year tradition of bullfighting.  Is Mexico next?  I don’t know, but I am glad I have had the privilege to see the fights I have been to and will continue going as long as there are fights. 

PRO TIP:  You can buy your ticket at Ticketmaster but please don’t bother.  You will never find the Ticketmaster counter and you can always get a seat when you buy tickets on location.